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Första benet på framsidan Vad du behöver veta Utför din plan Vad ska man se upp för Planera för markavrundning långt före inflygning Vilka samtal kan du ringa Detaljen Utför din plan. Det förutsätter att du har en. Så vad anser du att du ska gå med i din plan? Vi diskuterade detta i avsnittet "Segling innan start" HÄR Försök att få en översikt över banan från olika vinklar och testa dina observationer när du seglar din båt före start och tittar på andra båtar. Ta reda på vilken sida av vindvinden som är gynnsam, antingen genom observation från stranden eller när du går ut och seglar. Ser vinden starkare ut på ena eller andra sidan. Finns det några hinder (träd, byggnader, stora båtar), som kan påverka vinden över banan. Hur kommer vindbyarna ner på banan, gynnar de ena eller andra sidan, växlar vinden betydligt i dem och vilken tack är gynnsam som kommer in i vindkastet. Finns det en betydande strandlinje som kan få vinden att böja. Om du kan, arbeta med en annan båt för att testa vinden genom att segla upp motsatta sidor av takten. Hur du än gör det, lägg en plan och följ den tills villkoren ändras och bevis tyder starkt på ett annat handlingssätt. Håll dig mitt i kursen om det inte finns en uppenbar anledning att vara någon annanstans och titta på lokalbefolkningen för att se vart de går. Du gör mål på första takten Undvik folkmassor och bli inboxade Dra nytta av alla vindböjningar Fortsätt leta upp kursen för skift Undvik inga vindzoner orsakade av hinder Minimera tackling När du försöker komma till banans gynnade sida, offra 1 eller 2 båtar genom att duka i stället för att krossa och eventuellt dras till fel sida av banan. Planera i god tid för framåtgående markering. Om du är nära framsidan, har du viss flexibilitet i ditt tillvägagångssätt och kanske kan du utföra en sista -minuten -tackling om det gynnas, men om du är i en folkmassa, se till att du ställer upp på styrbord tidigt, åtminstone utanför 4 -båtzonen så att du kan segla runt i klar luft med hastighet. Se till att du vet vilken sida av loppet du vill ha och placera din båt därefter. Gör hagel på banan Vid denna tidpunkt är det värt att nämna några av haglarna du får göra vid starten och segla runt banan. Reglerna anger några tillåtna samtal nedan Av en konkurrent ”24 Room to Tack” vid ett hinder eller för båt i rätt väg - valfritt svar du tackar Inbjudan till protest - 24 protester 15 Båt 33 utom kontroll (och blir därför ett hinder) Taktiska haglar Styrbord Stanna uppe Inget utrymme - att klämma inåt vid vindmärket Överlappning Ingen överlappning Markera rummet Av kommittén Individuell återkallelse Allmän återkallelse Kod U flagga återkallelse Återkallande av svart flagga Hagel av observatören t.ex. 59 träffade. Kontakt mellan 45 och 67 Allt annat är bara förvirrande. Det är meningslöst att ange ett argument när alla dina konkurrenter och åskådare lyssnar. De kommer inte att tacka dig för det. Exempel på video med förvirrande samtal

Andra leverantörer Storbritannien East Coast Fiber Glass Precisionsvågar Dremel - avgörande för hembyggnad av glasfiber Cedarremsor Cedar Strip företag Cornwall modellbåtar Nedräkning Vindmätare USA Börja här på American Model Yacht Association

Några böcker du kanske vill läsa Teori Seglingsteori och praktik av CA Marchaj 1964 Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing av CA Marchaj 1979 Sail Performance av CA Marchaj 1996 High Performance Sailing av Frank Bethwaite 2010 (andra upplagan) Öva Expert Dinghy Racing av Paul Elvstrom 1963 Vind och strategi av Stuart Walker 1973 Championship Dinghy Sailing av Christopher Caswell och David Ullman 1978 Looking at Sails av Bruce Banks / Dick Kenny 1979 Winning - The Psychology of Competition av Stuart Walker 1980 Advanced Racing Tactics av Stuart Walker 1981 Sail, Race and Win av Eric Twiname 1982 This is Boat Tuning for Speed av Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 1984 Segla för att vinna serien - Jolle Helming av Lawrie Smith 1983 - Vindstrategi av David Houghton 1984 - Tuning din jolle av Lawrie Smith 1985 - Båthastighet av Rodney Pattisson / Tim Davison 1986 RYA Race Training Manual av Jim Saltonstall 1983 Jag tackar Brian Outram (Australien) för hans läslista Låt mig veta dina favoritböcker så att jag kan lägga till dem i listan

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 2) A Rig forestay tension: The A rig is the only suite where I change forestay tension. The rest have the forestay as tight as I can get it until I start worrying about breaking the boat or having the mast go out of column. You never want the forestay to pump or flog upwind, so for each increasing wind condition you go just a bit tighter so that you get a bit of sag, but no pumping. At the very top of A, the tighter the better and do not let it sag. The sag and a loose jib cunnigham seem to put a bit more fullness into the front of the jib and with very sensitive telltales you can see that the fuller the jib entry the longer the flow seems to stay attached to the leeward side of the jib. This is particularly helpful in very dirty air with lots of wind switches etc. The forestay length on my boat varies from 1138 to 1132mm from the lightest to strongest conditions. My go to setting when I am unsure turns out to be 1135 just as the rigging guide suggests. It will also depend on how much your backstay stretches, I use the below on my backstay: As Per Krabbe has kindly pointed out, dyneema lines are prone to shrinking. I have marks to quickly put the rigs into the boat (last minute change before heat etc), which I do check before each regatta, but over a few days the lines may still change length. I have a fairly good feeling now for what the rig should look like, but it's probably a good idea to check the lengths regularly. This is how I set up my main sheeting angle on the A rig: I put the palm of my hand against the aft quarter of the boat and when sighting from astern I have my fingers parallel to the backstay. With my hand in this position the main boom just touches my fingers. No measurments, no confusion and very easy to repeat. Yes it's wider than just about every tuning guide suggests, but at this point I am just setting up consistent sheeting angles of the main and jib (to follow in next post) With the main sheeting angle set, the jib is then trimmed such that the hole in back of the jib boom fitting is over the first knuckle on the deck. It's close to 60mm between the middle of the mast and the inner edge of the boom. In my case its also exactly the width of my three middle fingers. I posted some pictures Sue Brown took, but the posts seem to have disappeared. I seem to have put the link on my main profile and not this group ..lol. http://www.flickr.com/.../in/album-72177720308506905/... I do sail with the setting I posted. Here is my go fast mode: I run 20mm foot depths on the main and jib as a starting point. In this mode I want the boat to run with absolutely neutral helm. It can hunt the breeze slightly, but must never luff up and slow down. I never want to be pulling the bow down with the rudder. I may trim in and and push the bow up. This is absolutely the best VMG mode in the absence of other boats. You will go faster and end up higher than a boat that sails only in pinch mode. I use the bottom draft strip a lot. I want to see the maximum depth at 50% and a clean straight entry after the mast. If the fullness is further forward I flatten the foot of the mainsail further If the boat is running with a bit of weather helm as the breeze increases I will first flatten the main off to about 10mm and if that does not work I will change the trim to let the main out slightly further, but leave the jib the same. I will also flatten the jib down to 10mm at the very top end of A, but only after the main is already down to 10mm. The neutral helm also has the advantage that when I am unsighted and cant see the boat it is still sailing flat out without my input. This is also a big advantage when the boat is too far away to see clearly. That lower tell tale on the main is a great trim indicator. It should fly at a slight up angle on the weather side of about 20 degrees. In this photo it says I am sailing a fraction lower than optimum and I should push the boat up with the rudder. The neutral helm has one further huge advantage. As I tack, once I am on the new heading I seldom need to keep on some weather helm until the boat gets its speed up again and starts tracking. The boat also tacks much more cleanly as a result and I stall less when I make a mistake. I.e. its much easier to get the boat going again from a bad tack. And a great picture of John. He sheets the main in a bit more than I do, but the jib is still quite wide. This is probably his pinch mode though and if he dropped the main slightly so the jib is over the deck knuckle we would be quite close in setup. One difference is that the entry angle on the main on Johns boat at the first draft stripe is a bit wider than mine, so he would need to sheet a bit closer. My entry looks a lot flatter, so I can sheet the boom out a bit and still have a similar entry angle. This could be because I have a bit more mast bend coupled with less luff curve. I actively set my mast bend so that the luff at this height moves behind the mast. I.e. the luff sits on the centre line, not to leeward of the mast. Notice how flat he now runs his main foot depth. I was running 20mm, but John looks to be even flatter. It's also a great picture for showing the twist in the sails and a perfect example of how the twist in the jib parallels the back of the main. Active trim: My high mode has the jib width at 45-50mm, about 1cm - 1,5cm in from my best VMG mode. I have the ratchet set for the mainsail trim on my radio. I Move the trim/throttle stick on the radio so that it is two ratchet clicks up. This is the radio setting that I want to see my VMG sail setting at. I use the subtrim buttons on my radio to move the sails to that setting. With the trim all the way in I now want the jib to be at 50mm or perhaps even 45mm in very flat water. Depending on the radio, two clicks may move the trim in more than the desired 1-1.5cm so you would need to change your throttle curve. The radio I used at Fleetwood did not need it, but my newer radio moves the sheet too far and I have set a throttle curve. If there are boats around me and I need height, I will start with the boat at two clicks out and then once it up at full speed, I start to bleed the boat up as I trim in. Often you can carry a high fast mode for a length of time, but if I hit a bad wave or header and the boat slows then its immediately trim to the two clicks position, get the speed back and then work the boat up again one or two clicks. If I am in clear air and chasing then I found the boat very fast at two clicks out and did not trim in much The higher trim mode is also very useful if you get THAT boat below you that is racing only you and the fleet disappears into the distance whilst they try and luff the heck out of you. Your race is still toast, but at least it does give you some time to find a gap to tack away in. If you do have some space to leeward, then even with the wider trim you may be pleasantly surprised to see that you don't lose height and will roll over them quite quickly. I'll try and do a bit on twist, but here is a hint that I do not have enough twist in the top of my jib. Camber stripes are your friend. The bottom windward telltale is running at the angle I like, but the top one suggests I have mucked up the trim. It should match the bottom as closely as possible. Mains twist. Finicky beast. Half a turn on the vang can make a surprising difference. I can only suggest a starting point and then fiddle with small changes until the boat looks and behaves to your preferences. Looking at the boat from behind when the boat is on the water and using the picture of John's boat as a template would be a good start. Looking down the backstay from behind the boat, I want the main leech to parallel the backstay between the top two battens. It was difficult to take a photo, but fairly obvious in real life Jib Twist. I like the jib leech to parallel the back of the main for as far as possible. The upper third of the jib should also parallel the main entry angle as far as possible. Top of jib and upper third of main should start to luff at the same time as you head up into the wind. Earlier I posted a near perfect picture of John Tushingham and now I hope he forgives me for posting one a bit more ugly This was taken a month before the Globals and I think I had an edge on boat speed in this race. I never saw his boat look like this in the Globals and want to use this to point out how top sailors like him are prepared to adapt and experiment. In this photo we have similar rake, but I am running a more bent mast, with flatter sails. A much finer entry for the main as a result, which should result in a cleaner and wider slot between the back of the main and the jib. The difference in speed was very small, but even a cm or two of extra speed helps get your nose out in a crowded start and makes you look like a better sailor. Compare this to his globals setup B-Rig Quick reminder that these are my settings and opinions and are not the only way to do things. I was not very fond of the B-rig, but took the opportunity to go out and sail whenever there was enough wind in the evenings. After a few sessions of just buggering around with silly settings I started to really enjoy these sessions as the B-rig has such brilliant contrast between just sailing and sailing fast and once you found the faster settings the boat itself became increasingly easier to sail. I went into the first B-rig race at the Globals not knowing if I had got it right as I have had nobody to sail against. In short it was a very pleasant surprise and I had speed to burn. As the regatta wore on I made a few mistakes (getting off the lee shore etc) and started to second guess myself and changed the setting to trim a bit narrower, which was a mistake in retrospect, but I was not too stessed as I could still hang in for a top 3 in most races. The fastest boat was probably sail number 121. A bit inconsistent, but when he got it right had a definite edge towards the end of the regatta. There could be some advantage to the icarex sail material in these conditions, but if anything this boat was sheeting the jib wider than I do when it was flying. If you set the B-rig up anything like the A, the first thing you will most likely notice is lee helm and the first attempt to fix this would be to pull the main up to the centreline. It does balance the boat, but the groove becomes very narrow and it's hard to keep the boat going fast and tacking can become a bit harder. What worked for me was. As much aft rake as possible to take out some of the lee helm. I wanted the flattest entry angle possible with the maximum camber back at 50% in the lower third. So I bent the mast to take out all the luff curve. All 5mm of it. The tightest forestay possible, just short of breaking the boat. It makes the boat easier to tack and also takes shape out of the jib keeping the entry flatter. I wanted the widest main I could get away with and to keep things consistent I start with the main boom against the palm of my hand when my fingers are parallel to the backstay as normal. Most of the other boats do sheet a bit closer. Good, I feel I am faster. With the main boom in this position the jib boom is now over the side of the boat. 65-70mm between the mast and jib boom. I do have a 'point' mode where the jib may come in to 55-60mm, which could be used off the start line, but once clear I am sheeting out again. The jib is flat, 10mm-15 mm foot depth. The jib twist is still parallel to the back of the main, but you can twist it off a bit more at the very top of B rig conditions. The main is flat. I run 15mm, but JohnT is even flatter at 10mm or less. There is a fair amount of twist in the main, which you can get away with as with the luff curve taken out by the bent mast the slot is already very wide. The more twist you have, the faster the boat, but the limit is when the top third starts to backwind. I start with the main twist setting as follows. With the main at the VMG setting, sighting up the backstay a line drawn through the bottom two mainsail battens is parallel to the backstay. Run out of time. Will add a bit more later In the meanwhile here is a nice picture of John, over the start line , but a nice example of a fast setup B rig Sheeting Angle: More detail to follow, but its wider than you think. Three fingers will no longer do the trick. B rig: Backstay and mast: Bend that baby. Luff curve matches back of mast the entire length. Standard or 'stock' luff curve. Flat sails. Jib down at less than 15mm foot depth. I run 15mm on the main. JohnT was flatter. B-rig: More mast curve: B-Rig Main twist: Phone camera perspective mucks thing up, but a line through the ends of the bottom two battens is parallel to the backstay B-rig: Mast Curve

Stämning av en IOM (i ingen särskild ordning) Brad Gibson zoommöte Central Park Model Yacht Club Jib Pivot handledning Segelbåt RC Kantuns blad och rc -konfiguration Segelbåt RC Att bygga en rigg BG Segel och design BG Sails Rig tuning guide BG Segel och design Zvonko Jelacic Kantun 2 guide Segelbåt RC Hur du ställer in din rigg Ian Vickers Vanliga frågor Segelsetc Riggpaket Segelsetc Att sätta upp en rigg Peter Sutton Dell Quay Tuning i USA av IOM Anacortes radiokontrollseglare Segelklippning Roger Stollery Göra en tråd Bowsie Roger Stollery Burgee Roger Stollery Teknisk information om modellbåtar Lester Gilbert Att göra en rigg Lester Gilbert Tuning tips JG seglar Bygg en IOM -rigg JG seglar Riggen installation Frank Russell Design Rubiks rigguppställning och tuning John Taylor, Taylor Made Yachts Hur man ställer in en Shiraz John Taylor, Taylor Made Yachts Förbered diskussionen IOM -forum Att göra en rigg Lester Gilbert Rig tuning Seatle IOM -uppdatering John Ball CYRA Avrundning framåt Seatle IOM -uppdatering John Ball Klicka här För andra intressanta Seattle IOM -uppdateringar Intervju med Brad Gibson Seatle IOM -uppdatering. Bläddra ner till botten för intervjun 2012

Tävlingsregler och taktik "Lär dig reglerna som ett proffs, så att du kan bryta dem som en artist." - Pablo Picasso Vad du behöver veta Inspelat RYA Racing regler seminarium Ändringar i de nya tävlingsreglerna 2021-2024 Regelboken och fallstudier Kompletta tävlingsregler resurser för tävlande, domare och andra tävlingsmyndigheter Testa dina kunskaper Detaljerna Om du planerar att tävla i sommar måste du ha åtminstone en rudimentär förståelse för tävlingsreglerna. Exempelvis hamnar viken för styrbord, omkörning av båten håller fri, markrum måste ges till någon inuti överlappad båt inom zonen (4 båtlängder från märket) och så vidare. Att följa reglerna garanterar att du inte kommer att uppröra dina andra konkurrenter. Naturligtvis för seriösa racers representerar reglerna en möjlighet och kan användas för att få taktisk fördel. Exempelvis när du närmar dig marken framåt, bör den sista tagningen på styrbord (förutsatt att ett avrundningsmärke) vara minst 2 båtlängder utanför zonen. På så sätt har du rättigheter på alla hamntackbåtar som närmar sig märket och måste slå i zonen. Efter deras tackling kommer de inte att ha några rättigheter och om de får dig att avvika från din kurs kommer de att ådra sig en straff. Visste du att en båt när den står still på startlinjen blir ett hinder och därför kan du ringa vatten på en annan båt om du rundar hindret. Bara ett exempel på tillämpning av regler från den amerikanska segelföreningens reglerquizbok. Du kommer att göra bra om du har en klar förståelse av reglerna i början, vid hinder och märken, eftersom det finns mycket att vinna eller förlora genom att manipulera reglerna till din fördel. Det är också klokt att vara tydlig med hur du haglar. Du måste vara tydlig och koncis. Det finns definierade samtal i reglerna som du får göra, t.ex. markera rum. En sista punkt på hagel, se till att de är höga och tydliga så att alla dina konkurrenter kan höra när de kanske sprider sig längs strandlinjen. Komplett racingreglerresurs för tävlande, domare och andra tävlingspersoner RacingRulesofsailing.org Regelboken finns här tillsammans med fallböckerna: https://www.rya.org.uk/racing/racing-rules/Pages/racing-rules-downloads.aspx World Sailing Call Book för Radiosegling Syftet med denna bok är att tillhandahålla, för tävlande och tävlingsmyndigheter, godkända tolkningar av tävlingsreglerna vid segling enligt RRS inklusive bilaga E, Radio Sailing Racing Rules. https://www.sailing.org/documents/caseandcall/call_book_radio.php Här är länkarna till seminariet RYA Rules som hölls 2020 Introduktion till tävlingsreglerna https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFCuwTuW200 Starten https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KanGIVzhym0 Det framåtriktade benet https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyOx5TAahw4 Märker del 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzmP5BMkVgE På rymmen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQxeasGGr-s Markerar del 2 Masterclass https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMTYEgv8WjE En riktigt användbar webbplats för modellyachtracing av en seniordomare i Sail Canada som täcker förändringarna i tävlingsreglerna 2021-2024 och bonusobjekt inklusive skillnaden mellan korrekt bana, Mark Room och Right of Way, är här: https://sites.google.com/site/johnsrcsailingrulesandtactics/home För att omsätta dina kunskaper i praktiken, här är ett bra spel jag hittade på webben. Gränssnittet är lite klumpigt men det kommer att utmana dina kunskaper. http://game.finckh.net/indexe.htm Ett annat bra kunskapstest är här https://www.ussailing.org/competition/rules-officiating/dave-perrys-100-best-racing-rules-quizzes/ Till sist https://www.rcgroups.com/sailboats-59/ . En tråd är på regler (fjärde tråden ner från toppen när jag tittade, ledd av en kanadensisk lokalregelguru John Ball. Han har inte varit domare på ett tag men jag tror att han är med i IRSA: s reglerkommitté nu och är vanligtvis några gånger internationella domaren Gordon Davies chippar in.

The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. Put thick lines on the sails so you can see if you are pointing to high or have a backwinding mainsail. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Taking on board the advice I was given, led to a 2nd in the first TT event at Manor Park splitting John Tushingham and Craig Richards. This is the only warm up prior to the nationals. The blog tells the story and learnings from the event.

Racing results 2023 Events Schedule IOM Hampton Court Charity 1st Lincoln District 2nd to Darin Ballington Chipstead District 3rd to Peter Stollery and Craig Richards Bourneville District Did not attend due to virus Poole District 2nd to Craig Richards Manor Park District 2nd to Chris Harris Birkenhead Veterans 1st Watermead District Cancelled due to lack of entries Coalhouse Fort Open Postponned due to too much water Huntingdon Open 3rd to Colin Goodman and Darin Ballington Poole Open 1st (tied on points with Tony Edwards but better discard) Lincoln Ranking 5th Saturday and 4th on Sunday Chipstead Open 1st Keighley Ranking 4th Saturday, 2nd Sunday Chris Harris won both Fleetwood Nationals 6th Frensham Open 1st. Clean sheet of results Spain Europeans 23rd Woodspring Ranking 4th and 6th Emsworth Open 2nd Eastbourne Open 2nd to Dorian Crease in Cheinz Marblehead Chipstead GAMES 1 1st Gust of 25 knots. Three rivers GAMES 8th Suffered from slipping main leech tension fitting Frensham Open In bed with flu Lincoln Ranking Recovering from flu Guildford GAMES 2nd to James Hadden in Up Guildford GAMES 1st Datchet Ranking 6th Datchet Ranking 11th plagued with winch problems Keighley Nationals 6th. Getting to grips with new boat Three rivers GAMES Cancelled Datchet Ranking DF95 Manor Park TT 2nd to Craig Richards Poole Nationals Retired after leading on day 1 2022 Results IOM Manor Park 2nd (winner Darin Ballington) Chipstead 4th (Winner Peter Stollery) Hampton Court 3rd (winner Darin Ballington, 2nd Peter Stollery) Poole 3rd to Craig Richards and Tony Edwards Nationals 24th Chipstead Joint 1st on points but lost on count back to Dave Green Veterans 2nd to winner Tony Edwards Eastbourne 2nd to winner Ken Binks 2 Islands 4th to winner Rob Wilson Poole Ranking 4th and 7th. Tony Edwards won day one and Craig Richards day 2. W Kirby Ranking 12th and 8th Most of the Northern team were on the water. Chelmsford 2nd to Colin Goodman Emsworth 1st Manor Pk Rank 7th and 13th. Most the top UK sailors racing. Winner - Peter Stollery Eastbourne 2nd to Dave Allinson Chipstead 1st. Masterclass `Met and Southern District championships 1st 2021 Results Chipstead 15th Alternative A day to forget Veterans 15th Alternative Bourneville 1st Britpop (Midland regional champs) Nationals 37th out of 76 - that what happen when you are last off the line in most of the starts. Ranking 3 19th Ranking 4 3rd Frensham open 1st Ranking 5 21st 3 hours sleep in the camper the night before Ranking 6 23rd Only finished 4 out of 9 races due to broken shroud Eastbourne 2nd to Dave Allinson Chipstead 1st (Metropolitan and southern regional champs) Current UK ranking 21. Room for improvement.

Väder Vad du behöver veta Prognoser är egentligen bara relevanta för segling i öppet vatten. Den bästa delen av en prognos på en damm med träd är att se om det kommer att regna. Detaljerna En prognos är ganska irrelevant för modellyachting på en damm omgiven av träd. Prognosen kan vara för 25 knop vind, men dammen får uppleva högst 15 knop i vindbyarna. Långt bättre att komma ner till sjön tidigt och observera vad som händer och kanske få din båt ut på vattnet för att testa förhållandena och till och med ha en fräck övning. Det är användbart att veta om vinden kommer att svänga under dagen, t.ex. under passagen av en front. Du kan kanske upptäcka en förändring i vindmönstren på dammen när gungan börjar. En prognos för regn eller åska kommer att vara relevant för att bestämma lämpliga kläder. En prognos för att segla en radioyacht på öppet vatten, t.ex. West Kirby, Lincoln, Fleetwood eller på havet, är mycket mer relevant. Den prognostiserade vindhastigheten och riktningen blir sann och du kan nästan välja din rigg på baksidan av den och eventuella förändringar under dagen kan förutsägas eller åtminstone observeras och reageras därefter. En billig vindmätare kan också hjälpa om förhållandena är gränslinje mellan riggar (se Amazon). Självklart kommer du att ha samlat in relevant information innan hand så att du kan välja rätt rigg beroende på vindhastighet. Det finns många väderappar där ute, Windy, Wind Guru, Weather Pro, Met Office. Personligen tycker jag att Windy är mycket användbart men bäst att fråga vad lokalbefolkningen använder eftersom deras app borde vara mest relevant för din plats. Sammanfattningsvis Kunskap om vindprognosen är relevant på öppet vatten, men på en damm är observation och testning det enda sättet att bestämma förhållanden. Länkar Blåsigt Vindmätare Läs den positiva recensionen .

The Project I have sailed an IOM for two years and think I am beginning to understand how the boats are fitted together and pimped for speed. My challenge with racing the IOM is dealing with speed in a breeze so a sensible solution to developing my skill was to buy a faster boat and get used to the speed as well as understand how another boat design work and could be optimised. In looking into the Marblehead designs, I note that the Grunge is the boat of choice but unfortunately there were none available when I looked. The were a few Starkers designs available built by Dave Creed which seemed to be a good platform to get me started and one in particular took my eye so I took the plunge and bought it. Over the autumn and winter this year, my plan is to optimise the boat. It has a standard A rig, B, C 1,2,3. The A is a standard swing rig and the others conventional. All will need re rigging as the cord is over four years old and whilst not used cannot be considered to be reliable. The next section looks at the jobs list on the new boat.

Innan ett evenemang Bestäm vad som är ditt mål i segling Veta din tävlingsregler och taktik Hantera din investering med de försiktiga båtunderhåll Segla snabbt med höger båttuning och inställning Känn dina radiokontroller Effektiv båtövning Säkerställ konsekvent installation med checklistor Vet hur vädret hjälper dig Användbar referenser