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IOM Build Race tune is the best site on the web for all things IOM and radio yacht racing. How to build, setup and race your boat Building, tuning, racing IOM and radio Model Yachts Welcome to Barrow's unique information site for radio sailing. If you are looking to get into radio sailing, improve your performance or learn about building and setting up these tricky boats, then this is the site for you. Boat building, setting up the boats, maximising sailing performance and much much more. Either click on a heading or search for something generically using the search box. Using a mobile, the menu is accessed by clicking on the three horizontal lines at the top of the screen. Please note that this is a members only site so sign up when asked to get access to the best radio sailing content on the web. Click on any of the restricted tabs to get to the sign up page. It only asks for a name and email address. The privacy policy can be accessed at the bottom of the page. The About, Useful websites and more tabs are available to view as a taster. I hope you enjoy site. Please send me a message if you want anything added or researched. What will you find: About - Explains why I created the site, who its for and a bit about me Blog - As I come across ideas or sail in events, I put articles and reports in here Useful websites - This is a list of all the sites I identified in my journey to build and race boats The classes - Include building, setting up and racing IOM's, DF65, DF95 and Marbleheads Racing tips - There is a lot packed into here for new and a new section for advanced skippers More - My race schedule, results, reference books, advice for new entrants and acknowledgements Look on this site as a text book for all things radio sailing.

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The IOM Project BUILDING AND RACING ONE METRES 2 Alternatives 2 Britpops 2 Alioths 2 Proteus (One broke and current)

Building a travel boat for boat and rigs, boat storage box, rig box and stand Protect your investment International travel box, boat box, rig box and stand What you need to know Boat box made of 1/8th plywood to my own design and painted with epoxy and polyurethane left over from the boat build. Rig box is made from Correx reinforced with strip wood bonded with purpose made double sided tape Boat stand made from 20x20mm strip wood. Boat box for international travel designed by Peter Stollery The Details Boat Box The design is such you can lay the fin rudder and bulb in the bottom of the box on felt. The movable frames are cut out using the frame shape on the design plan. A layer of felt is added to protect the boat. Channels are cut out of the bottom of the frames for the fin bulb and rudder. The frames hold these securely in place. Once the frames are in the boat is added. The lid is designed to just touch the frames so nothing can move inside the box whichever way up it is held. Bild 4 Local Transport To transport the boat locally when fully rigged to the club, I wrap a couple of loops of insulation foam around the hull to stop the hull resting on the boot of the car. In addition I edge the fin and rudder and bulb with the same foam. Boat support frame A very simple construction made out of 20x20mm strip wood and hinged with a couple of bolts. Remember to cut any excess bolt off as this can damage the fin. The boat can be sat at an angle to for rig set up. Skydda din investering Båtlåda, Rigbox och stativ Vad du behöver veta Båtlåda gjord av 1/8 plywood i min egen design och målad med epoxi och polyuretan kvar från båtbyggnaden. Riggboxen är tillverkad av Correx förstärkt med bandträ som är limmat med specialtillverkad dubbelsidig tejp Båtställ i 20x20 mm bandträ. Detaljerna (bild 1,2 och 3) Båtlåda Designen är sådan att du kan lägga finnröret och glödlampan i lådans botten på filt. De rörliga ramarna skärs ut med hjälp av ramformen på designplanen. Ett lager filt läggs till för att skydda båten. Kanaler skärs ut från botten av ramarna för finnlampan och rodret. Ramarna håller dessa säkert på plats. När ramarna är i båten läggs till. Locket är utformat för att bara vidröra ramarna så att inget kan röra sig inuti lådan, oavsett vilket uppåt det hålls. Lokal transport (bild 4) För att transportera båten lokalt när den är fullt riggad till klubban, lindar jag ett par öglor med isoleringsskum runt skrovet för att stoppa skrovet som vilar på bilens bagageutrymme. Dessutom kantar jag fenan och rodret och glödlampan med samma skum. Båtsstödram (bild 4) En mycket enkel konstruktion av 20x20 mm bandträ och gångjärn med ett par bultar. Kom ihåg att klippa bort eventuell överskottsbult eftersom det kan skada fenan. Båten kan sättas i vinkel mot för rigguppställning. Segelbox (bild 5 och 6) Detta tog lite perfektion men det är ett riktigt billigt sätt att göra en robust, väderbeständig riggbox. Jag köpte 3 ark 8ft x 4ft x 2mm Correx från HÄR och den dubbelsidiga tejpen för att limma bandträet HÄR Correx Det är så enkelt att klippa och vika och är väldigt starkt när den förstärks med bandträ på kanterna och fixeras under varje mast. Jag använde pennhållarklämmor som fastnat med dubbelsidig tejp för att hålla masterna på plats. Observera att Correx är mycket svårt att hålla något till det. Den dubbelsidiga tejpen ovan och kardborrbandet klibbar extremt bra. Kostar £ 30 totalt och jag har ytterligare två ark Correx om den här skadas. Peter Stollery's international travel box Peter very kindly sent me the details of his magic box for transporting my IOM and rigs on a plane to Australia. The box is easy to assemble with care and cheap to build. I have made one myself but painted it white inside and out. With a 3d printed boat, I wanted to reflect heat if the box ever got left out in the sun airside. Basically it is a standard rig box shape on plan but with a much deeper section at the top of the rig to enclose the boat. A strong bulkhead is fitted in the middle to which the bulb and fin is bolted (the rig bag slides under the bulkhead). I carefully slide the bulb into a tight fitting piece of plumbing pipe for which there are standard brackets to hold it in place (short pieces of pipe insulation are rammed into the ends and then jammed against the sides of the box to make sure the bulb can't move). For the Italy trip I also carried 2 Tx which were secured with string and then sandwiched with soft foam when the lid was fitted. Also added for Italy was a small tool kit (ice cream tub) and all the essential spares dotted about and wrapped in bubble wrap. All up weight was 15kg. Everything else went in hand luggage. I built the box to go to Canada in 2003 and it has survived trips to Spain, Australia and Italy without any damage [also San Fransisco 2015, Brazil 2019, Croatia 2022 and Spain 2023 with Shaun Priestley]. The only down side is that the lid is secured by 20 screws so it is a bit of a hassle if security want to look inside!! If you do decide to build, make sure everything is carefully packed and secured (especially the bulb) as the consequences of 'loose' packing with this type of box are obviously much more dramatic! Here is a diagram with the overall dimensions of the magic box followed by a set of pictures showing how everything fits inside The grey pipe is 38mm internal diameter and is 380mm long. The slit is 218mm long and about 5mm wide. The bulb has a sock which is a bit of old duster I think. The bulb goes into the tube with the aft end of the bulb first. This means the trailing edge of the fin comes to a stop at the end of the slit. This is because the tube is secured in the box with the forward (blunt!) end of the bulb pointing at the ground (ie the away from the carrying handle). This means that gravity will be trying to push the bulb and fin out of the slit in the tube and it will be the blunt end pushing on the side of the box (rather than the really sharp end trying to poke its way out of the box!). That said, the bulb should be so tightly jammed in the tube that it can't move! Back to sliding the bulb in to the tube, there is a piece of thin but tough white plastic folded in half and taped to the back edge of the fin. Not only does this protect the back edge but it protects the sides if the fin from being scratched by the edges of the slit when you slide the bulb in. It is a very tight fit with the duster and the bulb actually opens up the slit a bit to accommodate the bulb. There is some duck tape around the slit end of the pipe to pull this in tight. At the pointy end I jam in some thin walled pipe insulation and then jam in some chunkier short sections of pipe insulation. The box should effectively be pushing these in (ie they should be sticking out of the tube until the tube is put in the box. When clamped to the bulkhead which you'll see in a later email, there is another sponge packer which keeps everything really. tight. The bulk head and the bulb packing is the most important bit as clearly we don't want it coming loose! The plastic pipe is slightly shorter than the internal width of the box but the chunky bits of pipe insulation at each end are long enough so that they can't be forced completely inside the tube. This means they stick out and have to be squashed in against the box at each end i.e. the box ends up trying to force the pipe insulation in which helps keep everything tight. The Bulkhead The bulkhead is 6mm ply with 20 x 20mm stiffner along the top and down the sides. The bulkhead is fitted at 90 degrees to the side with the handle attached. The cut out is shaped with the highest bit 54mm above the base of the box. Basically, you cut out the minimal amount to get the rig bag in so that as much strength is retained. When I slide the rig bag in I have to flex the masts a small amount to get them in. The pipe clips are permanently screwed to the bulkhead through their top hole and then removeable nuts and bolts secure it through the bottom hole. The box is made with 3mm ply with 20 x 20mm framing. The ply is glued and pinned at 100mm centres to the framing. The lid is entirely 3mm ply with the exception of one piece of 20mm framing which runs from the widest end of the box to the bulkhead. The mast laid on the box in the image attached shows the line of where this bit of reinforcing sits when the lid is on. This simply stiffens the lid over the top of where the fin lies. There are 3mm ply 80mm diameter reinforcing patches either side of the bulkhead which take the handle attachments. Here is a picture of the lid with its reinforcing bar. The rig bag slides in under some zig zagging rope which helps to keep it secure. Note that the masts are along the side which doesn't have the handle (ie the bottom of the box when being carried). The bulb tube is bolted into the clips making sure the pipe insulation is tight against the sides of the box. The boat goes deck down (normally with the rudder off of course!). I have two straps which go around the hull which are attached to the handle side of the box. As with the bulb and rigs, the straps are so that the boat can't slip or move down when the box is being carried. I haven't put any bubble wrap or foam packers in around the boat but normally the front section is full of padding. The tool box, spares, txs etc.... Are all secured to the bottom of the box (bottom when its being carried). To be honest I can't remember exactly hiw this is done but so long as the stuff can't come loose it should be fine. All up weight with everything in was around 15kg I think. Note 1. All the dims on the drawing are external overall dims and include the lid thickness. 2. As previous email there is only one bar fixed to the lid. 3. The bulkhead is 6mm ply and framing and is very strong. The framing down the sides of the bulkhead is screwed in from the outside rather than pinned. 4. The 410mm dim is the overall dimension to the face of the ply measured along the line of the bulkhead. 5. There is no bulkhead around the txs. They are just tied in with plenty of foam packing around them.

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För att testa den här funktionen, besök din livesida. Alla inlägg Mina inlägg The Forum Browse the forum below & start posting questions, tips, and anything else that you'd like to share with the community. Sortera efter: Senaste aktivitet Följ alla kategorier Skapa nytt inlägg Comments Visningar Senaste aktivitet Item option menu Jib pivot guido02474 0 0 10 feb. 2023 I made an improvement to my alternative so that I can adjust the rake better rc zeilen 0 1 01 juli 2022 Forum - Frameless

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Några böcker du kanske vill läsa Teori Seglingsteori och praktik av CA Marchaj 1964 Aero-Hydrodynamics of Sailing av CA Marchaj 1979 Sail Performance av CA Marchaj 1996 High Performance Sailing av Frank Bethwaite 2010 (andra upplagan) Öva Expert Dinghy Racing av Paul Elvstrom 1963 Vind och strategi av Stuart Walker 1973 Championship Dinghy Sailing av Christopher Caswell och David Ullman 1978 Looking at Sails av Bruce Banks / Dick Kenny 1979 Winning - The Psychology of Competition av Stuart Walker 1980 Advanced Racing Tactics av Stuart Walker 1981 Sail, Race and Win av Eric Twiname 1982 This is Boat Tuning for Speed av Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 1984 Segla för att vinna serien - Jolle Helming av Lawrie Smith 1983 - Vindstrategi av David Houghton 1984 - Tuning din jolle av Lawrie Smith 1985 - Båthastighet av Rodney Pattisson / Tim Davison 1986 RYA Race Training Manual av Jim Saltonstall 1983 Jag tackar Brian Outram (Australien) för hans läslista Låt mig veta dina favoritböcker så att jag kan lägga till dem i listan

The new optimised Alternative boat build When I play golf, if I drive off the tee and lose my ball because of an errant swing, why is it that my second attempt is nearly always perfect making me wonder why didn't I swing like that on my first shot! It's kind of like that when you build a second boat. The first attempt is full of small errors, air bubbles, lifted glass at the bow and stern, too much epoxy used, etc. The second boat has errors but it is much better and lighter. I started the second boat yesterday afternoon and unwrapped it this morning and what a beauty she looks. If you are interested, here is what I did with a few pictures. I started by repairing the old hull plug, patching up some damage when I cut the previous boat off the plug with a dremel. After a rub down and 5 coats of release wax it was good as new and ready for the layup. I cut out 3 sheets of 124gm S glass from a paper pattern I made earlier. I acquired 3 sheets of brown paper which were from a delivery of an old flower arrangement (my wife's!). With care, I cut the glass cloth straight onto the brown paper from the paper pattern I made earlier. The cloth was cut with no mess. In addition to the cutting, I drew a centre line with a felt pen and perpendicular lines (to the centreline) for the bow, stern and edge of the foredeck. This is done to allow easy alignment (when laying down the cloth onto the plug) with a centreline drawn down the keel of the hull along with a mark to indicate the foredeck. The brown paper not only seperated the 3 layers of cloth but also allows the cloth to be rolled up and carried as well as protecting the edges, keeping the cloth flat and clean. (Image 1) Last summer on the first boat build, I cut the glass outside on a table, did not use any paper or protective cover and ended up with strands of glass fibre all over the patio! With the cloth prepared, I was ready to lay the hull up in the garden shed. Yesterday it was about 12 degrees which is just warm enough to work with epoxy. I needed a workbench to clamp the hull upside down (Image 4), a piece of wood hanging from the shed ceiling to screw the plug support post to work on the deck (Image 3), paper towel to wipe up mess, acetone for cleaning, nitril gloves to protect my hands, West System epoxy (slow cure), three plastic pots (I use fromage frais pots), a 2 inch paint brush and an aluminium roller for removing air bubbles, peel ply for wrapping the epoxy, screwdriver and electric drill for mounting and dismounting the plug. With all the bits together on site, I was ready to go. After mixing the epoxy using the self measuring plungers that you screw on the resin and hardener tins (3 pushes of the plunger will do one layer of glass) I applied resin to the hull side of the plug, being careful to wet the curves of the deck. The epoxy will not lie smooth on the wax and will pull back into globules looking a bit messy but it won't matter. Taking the first layer of cloth and with the boat mounted upside down on the workbench, hold it over the hull aligning the centreline, bow, stern and foredeck marks before laying the cloth down on the epoxied plug. (Image 2 3 and 4) Gently smooth out the cloth with the paint brush and work out from the centre until the cloth is flat all over. This is quite fiddly but by taking time and being patient the cloth will lay out perfectly. Next step is to go over the cloth with the paint brush (be very gentle) and wetting the cloth where dry, removing air bubbles as you go. Use the epoxy sparingly as excess resin just adds weight. Finally go over the hull with the aluminium roller to get any missed air bubbles. Now remove the plug from the workbench and screw to the bar dropping from the shed ceiling. Initially fix the hull upside down and then carefully allow the plug to rotate down while supporting the cloth over the deck, until the deck is level. (In my first build last summer, I picked the plug from the workbench after wetting the cloth on the hull, rotated it so the deck was uppermost, raised it up to the supporting bar and the glass cloth fell off onto the floor. You have been warned!) Before you work the cloth into the deck with the paintbrush, cut away any excess. On the first layer I used a 1 inch overlap. On the second layer, I butt the ends of the cloth (ie no overlap) and on the third layer use an overlap again. In this way you avoid too much weight along the centreline of the deck. On my first boat I ended up with 6 layers of cloth on the centreline which produced a strong boat but heavy in the ends. Work the cloth into the deck with the paint brush in the same way as the hull, until flat and smooth. Sorry there are no pictures of this as my gloves were coated in epoxy at the time! Check over the hull and deck in good light to make sure there are no air bubbles and the cloth is tightly bonded at the bow and stern. Leave the plug until the epoxy remaining in your mixing jug starts to go stringy. When this happens, the first layer of cloth will be stuck nicely to the plug and won't move when you apply the second layer. The longer you can leave it between layers the better. Half an hour should be long enough. Wash your paint brush, gloves and roller in acetone and mix the second batch of epoxy. Bin the 1st mixing pot. For the second layer, drape the cloth over the hull taking care with the alignment marks and brush out as before using just enough epoxy to wet the cloth. Repeat for the third layer remembering to clean tools in between. I use four plunges of epoxy for the last layer because I wanted the outer layer slightly wetter. Any excess would be absorbed by the peel ply. Finally wrap in peel ply. I used 10 metres of 100mm wide. Overkill I know but it did an amazing job even though the hull look a bit mummy like. (Image 5) At the same time as laying up the hull, I made the components in Image 8. 9. 10. 14, 15 and 18. The fin box was Dave Creed's work. A thin sheet for the bow stern and bulkheads The mould for the deck layout above the fin box and final deck Strip of S glass for bonding the deck Reinforcement for the fordeck understanding the jib tack eyes The radio pot and forward bulkhead Paper template for forward bulkhead I peeled the peel ply off this morning to discover a hull with no air bubbles, perfect adhesion at the bow, stern and foredeck. In all the process took about 3 hours All I need now are two coats of epoxy primer rubbed smooth and I am ready to pop the hull off the plug. Here is the rough finish prior to sanding The finished hull popped off the mould safely in its supporting jig with the deck taped together to hold it secure It all looks good and I know that the hull is useable so I can pay the second design fee and fit the boat out. Having added two coats of epoxy primer, it is time to rub it all back to the surface of the S glass to make the hull as light and as smooth as possible. Up to two hours sanding. Joy! but the end result is worth the effort. After painting on 250gms of High build epoxy primer, I sanded 200gms off on Saturday. The result is a very light smooth hull which you can see through. The hull will remain in this condition until the deck has been finished and all the holes drilled. Then it is time for the vinyl wrap in metallic blue. Can't wait to see how it ends up when cut off the mould. Once the hull is off the mould it goes straight into a support jig, with the frames cut from the design plan. This jig is marked and used for setting the fin position and rudder. (Image 7) The foredeck and aft deck is bonded using 1 layer of 124gm s cloth (Image 13). The hull is strong and ready for the fin box, bulkhead and adjoining deck and radio pot to be bonded in. On Sunday I cut all the access holes, (Image 33) and added two further layers of S glass around the fin box area in the hull, bonded the deck with an extra layer of S glass at the jib take off point and fitted the transom I put small reinforcing plates in the deck at the stern and put 1 layer of S glass about 1 inch wide down the centre of the foredeck. All up weight of the hull with all glass infrastructure but ex fitting will be around 400gms, considerably lighter than my first hull especially in the ends but heavier than the professional hulls. Having said that the hull is very strong, light in the ends and should be competitive. Todays job is to fit the fin, bulkhead, deck moulding and radio pot and a post for the jib tack take off point. On course to finished hull by end of week. A long day sealing the bow and stern, (Image 18 and 19) strengthening the foredeck, building an ultra light foredeck post (Image 14), cutting a slot in the hull (Image 21), measuring and shaping the forward bulkhead (Image 15 and 16) , fin case and deck. Lots of pictures below in a slightly random order. Tomorrow I hope to bond in all the pieces and then the only other major jobs are to fit the plates for the servo and rudder stock which will likely be done on Wednesday. Then a final rub down and drill all the holes for the deck fittings. Finally after that I can wrap the boat in its metallic blue vinyl. Its an experiment but I am sure it will be worth the effort and if it doesn't work I can always paint it. Fitting the fin Yesterday was all about getting the fin box fitted. Alignment of the fin in exactly the right position with the design measurements and having it vertical is the most critical job on the boat. Get this wrong and the boat will be hard to balance and may sail higher on one tack that the other. The boat in my jig is set up to be level on its water line, ie there is a horizontal line connection the bottom of the bow and bottom of the stern. The leading edge of the fin sits perpendicular to this line. Get the jig right and everything is easy. On the plan there are two measurements, one from the hull to the leading edge of the fin and then one from the tip of the bow to the bottom of the fin where it enters the bulb. Set these measurements and the fin leading edge should be perpendicular tp the waterline of the boat. I was less than a degree out. See image 24-27. To get the fin exactly vertical looking from the stern, I level the boat at the shroud point and use a level on the fin to make vertical and then use masking tape to secure it. Gravity helps in picture 27. The string in the picture is used to measure from the bow to the fin but I did have to make holes in the jig. Tomorrow, I can fit the final pieces of the deck and the bulkhead. Finishing the bonding Yesterday was gluing day. Fitted the forward deck, pre drilled bulkhead, radio pot holder and mainsheet post. Only one small error. I forgot to seal and reinforce the top of the fin box I have the fiddliest job to do that today plus final fit for the servo mount and rudder stock mount. Nest jobs are to pre drill all the fitting holes, apply filler where required and final sand ready to apply wrap. When fitting the mainsheet post, I accurately measured a centreline at the deck and then did the same with a string 6 inches off the deck. Then using a set square I was able to get the mainsheet post upright and aligned with the fin case, back stay, jib sheet eyes and jib attachment points which are all marked up. Fingers crossed the sails will set the same on both tacks. Hull weight so far is 420gms. Old hull weight at this point 620gms. Maybe 350gms is achievable with a slightly thinner layup. I was generous with the epoxy at the base of the fin but this is where the correctors with be anyway. Estimate approx 400gms of correctors will be required. Tidying up Final bit of reinforcement went in yesterday. Not much to show as boat looks similar to day before but with addition of rudder stock and servo supports. Giving the hull a good t cut to look for any rough spots and then the metallic blue wrap Little remaining jobs to do after the wrap like final fit of fin and add the electronics and fittings Finished the build With the final jobs knocked off on Friday the hull is ready for wrapping. I spent today sanding and cleaning the hull and deck, final fit of the fin and rudder which ended up exactly according to the design plans and are both in line with each other. Tomorrow will be wrapping day. Ordered the new PG tubes from Potters Solutions and a couple of bits and bobs from Sailsetc. Once the boat is wrapped I can set up the new rigs using existing fittings apart from the shrouds. Then a bit of in house tuning and I am ready to get on the water. Its not a wrap The wrap failed. There is so much curvature in the hull and deck, you need to stretch the wrap so much before application and you need several pairs of hands, so it's back to the paint spraying. The boat is finished bar the spray and as Mr Gibson said you are far better off with paint as damaged vinyl is impossible to repair. He should know he used to wrap 18 footers amongst other things. Why didn't I speak to him first. The dream was there, the experience was missing. Loved the metallic finish but it is not to be. Onwards and upwards and off to watch the 18 footers race round Sydney harbour in the JJ Giltinan. On the computer of course Decision time on paint It has been a long process trying to sort the paint for the boat. I could use my tried and tested 2 pack polyurethane which I know is hard durable and the right solution, but I do want to spray to keep the decks looking smart. As you know I tried using vinyl wrap but the curves of the boat proved too much. The search took me to spray cans of epoxy, enamel and other finishes but I came across an industrial acrylic based paint in a spray can. It is designed for repair of industrial coatings indoor or external. Its a risk I know but I prepared a sample this afternoon and it has great colour, is hard, flexible, great UV properties and resistant to scratches. The date sheet is here: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3165638.pdf So on it goes tomorrow and we will see how the paint performs. The pictures below show the new spray look on a sample and the effect I am trying to avoid when painting 2 pack Polyurethane. I will show you the result tomorrow and then see how it wears when we get sailing. Den nya optimerade alternativa båtbyggnaden När jag spelar golf, om jag kör av tee och tappar min boll på grund av en felaktig svängning, varför är det så att mitt andra försök alltid är perfekt får mig att undra varför jag inte svängde så på mitt första skott! Det är ungefär så när man bygger en andra båt. Det första försöket är fullt av små fel, luftbubblor, lyftande glas vid fören och akter, för mycket epoxi används etc. Jag startade den andra båten igår eftermiddag och packade upp den i morse och vilken skönhet hon ser ut. Om du är intresserad, här är vad jag gjorde med några bilder. Jag började med att reparera den gamla skrovpluggen, lappa upp en del skador när jag klippte bort den tidigare båten med en dremel. Efter en gnidning och 5 lager släppvax var det gott som nytt och klart för uppläggningen. Jag klippte ut 3 ark 124gm S -glas från ett pappersmönster som jag gjorde tidigare. Jag skaffade 3 ark brunt papper från en leverans av ett gammalt blomsterarrangemang (min frus!). Med omsorg skär jag glasduken rakt på det bruna papperet från pappersmönstret jag gjorde tidigare. Tyget klipptes utan röra. Förutom skärningen ritade jag en mittlinje med en filtpenna och vinkelräta linjer (mot mittlinjen) för fören, akter och kant på fördäcket. Detta görs för att möjliggöra enkel inriktning (när du lägger tyget på pluggen) med en mittlinje neddragen i skrovets köl tillsammans med ett märke för att ange fördäcket. Det bruna pappret separerade inte bara de tre tygskikten utan gör också att duken kan rullas ihop och bäras samt skydda kanterna, hålla duken platt och ren. (Bild 1) Förra sommaren på den första båtbyggnaden skar jag glaset utanför på ett bord, använde inget papper eller skyddskåpa och slutade med trådar av glasfiber över hela uteplatsen! Med trasan klar var jag redo att lägga skrovet i trädgårdsboden. Igår var det cirka 12 grader vilket är lagom varmt för att arbeta med epoxi. Jag behövde en arbetsbänk för att klämma upp skrovet upp och ner (bild 4), en träbit som hängde från taket för att skruva pluggstödsstolpen för att fungera på däck (bild 3), pappershandduk för att torka upp röra, aceton för rengöring , nitrilhandskar för att skydda mina händer, West System epoxi (långsam härdning), tre plastkrukor (jag använder fromage frais -krukor), en 2 tums pensel och en aluminiumrulle för att ta bort luftbubblor, skal för att packa in epoxin, skruvmejsel och elektrisk borr för montering och demontering av kontakten. Med alla bitar ihop på plats var jag redo att gå. Efter att ha blandat epoxin med hjälp av de självmätande kolvarna som du skruvar på harts- och härdningsformarna (3 tryck på kolven gör ett lager glas) applicerade jag harts på pluggens skrovsida, var noga med att blöta kurvorna på däck. Epoxin kommer inte att ligga smidigt på vaxet och kommer att dra tillbaka till kulor som ser lite rörigt ut men det spelar ingen roll. Ta det första tygskiktet och med båten monterad upp och ner på arbetsbänken, håll den över skrovet och rikta in mittlinjen, fören, akter- och fördäckmärkena innan du lägger tyget på den epoxade pluggen. (Bild 2 3 och 4) Släta försiktigt ut trasan med penseln och träna från mitten tills duken är platt överallt. Detta är ganska jobbigt men genom att ta tid och ha tålamod kommer duken att lägga sig perfekt. Nästa steg är att gå över duken med penseln (var mycket försiktig) och väta trasan där den är torr, ta bort luftbubblor när du går. Använd epoxin sparsamt eftersom överskott av harts bara ökar vikten. Slutligen gå över skrovet med aluminiumrullen för att få eventuella missade luftbubblor. Ta nu bort kontakten från arbetsbänken och skruva fast den i stången från taket. Fixera inledningsvis skrovet upp och ner och låt sedan försiktigt pluggen rotera nedåt medan du stöder duken över däcket tills däcket är plant. (I mitt första bygge förra sommaren plockade jag ut kontakten från arbetsbänken efter att ha fuktat trasan på skrovet, roterat det så att däcket var överst, lyfte upp det till stödstången och glasduken föll ner på golvet. Du har varnas!) Innan du torkar in duken i däcket med penseln, skär bort eventuellt överskott. På det första lagret använde jag en 1 tum överlappning. På det andra lagret stöter jag ändarna på duken (dvs ingen överlappning) och på det tredje lagret använder jag en överlappning igen. På så sätt slipper du för mycket vikt längs däckets mittlinje. På min första båt hamnade jag med 6 lager tyg på mittlinjen som gav en stark båt men tung i ändarna. Arbeta in duken i däcket med penseln på samma sätt som skrovet, tills det är plant och jämnt. Tyvärr finns det inga bilder på detta eftersom mina handskar var belagda med epoxi vid den tiden! Kontrollera över skrovet och däcket i gott ljus för att se till att det inte finns några luftbubblor och att duken sitter tätt vid fören och akter. Lämna kontakten tills epoxin som återstår i din blandningskanna börjar bli trådig. När detta händer kommer det första tygskiktet att klibba fast ordentligt på pluggen och rör sig inte när du applicerar det andra lagret. Ju längre du kan lämna den mellan lagren desto bättre. En halvtimme ska vara tillräckligt lång. Tvätta din pensel, handskar och rulle i aceton och blanda den andra omgången epoxi. Fyll den första blandningsgrytan. För det andra lagret, dra duken över skrovet var noga med inriktningsmärkena och borsta ut som innan med tillräckligt med epoxi för att blöta trasan. Upprepa för det tredje lagret och kom ihåg att rengöra verktyg emellan. Jag använder fyra stötar av epoxi för det sista lagret eftersom jag ville ha det yttre lagret något fuktigare. Eventuellt överskott skulle absorberas av skalskiktet. Slå slutligen in skalskiktet. Jag använde 10 meter på 100 mm bred. Overkill jag vet men det gjorde ett fantastiskt jobb trots att skrovet ser lite mummigt ut. (Bild 5) Samtidigt gjorde jag komponenterna i bild 8. 9. 10. 14, 15 och 18. Finboxen var Dave Creeds arbete. Jag skalade av skalet i morse för att upptäcka ett skrov utan luftbubblor, perfekt vidhäftning vid fören, akter och fördäck. Sammantaget tog processen cirka 3 timmar Allt jag behöver nu är två lager epoxiprimer som gnids mjukt och jag är redo att släppa loss skrovet från kontakten. (Bild 6 och 7) Om allt ser bra ut och jag vet att skrovet är användbart kan jag betala konstruktionsavgiften och passa båten. Efter att ha lagt till två lager epoxiprimer är det dags att gnugga allt tillbaka till S -glasets yta för att göra skrovet så lätt och så slätt som möjligt. Upp till två timmar slipning. Glädje! men slutresultatet är värt ansträngningen. Efter att ha målat på 250 gram högbyggd epoxiprimer slipade jag bort 200 gram på lördagen. Resultatet är ett mycket lätt slätt skrov som du kan se igenom. Skrovet förblir i detta skick tills däcket är färdigt och alla hål har borrats. Då är det dags för vinylfolien i metallblått. Ser fram emot att se hur det hamnar när formen skärs av. När skrovet är av formen går det rakt in i en stödjigg, med ramarna skurna från designplanen. Denna jigg är markerad och används för att ställa in finpositionen och rodret. (Bild 7) Fördäck och akterdäck fästs med 1 lager 124gm tyg (bild 13). Skrovet är starkt och redo för finlådan, skottet och angränsande däck och radiokruka att bindas i. På söndagen klippte jag alla åtkomsthål, (bild 33) och lade till ytterligare två lager S -glas runt finlådans område i skrovet, limmade däcket med ett extra lager S -glas vid fästets startpunkt och monterade akterspegeln Jag lade små förstärkningsplattor i däcket vid akterna och lade 1 lager S -glas ca 1 tum brett ner i mitten av fördäcket. Hela vikten på skrovet med all glasinfrastruktur men ex -montering kommer att vara cirka 400 gram, betydligt lättare än mitt första skrov, särskilt i ändarna men tyngre än de professionella skroven. Med det sagt att skrovet är mycket starkt, lätt i ändarna och ska vara konkurrenskraftigt. Dagens jobb är att passa fenan, skottet, däckgjutningen och radiopotten och en stolpe för jib tack -startpunkten. På väg till färdigt skrov i slutet av veckan. En lång dag med försegling av fören och akter, (bild 18 och 19) förstärkning av fördäck, byggande av ultralätt fördäckstolpe (bild 14), kapning av en slits i skrovet (bild 21), mätning och formning av det främre skottet (bild 15 och 16) , fenfodral och däck. Massor av bilder nedan i lite slumpmässig ordning. Imorgon hoppas jag kunna binda ihop alla bitar och då är de enda andra stora jobben att montera plattorna för servo- och roderbeståndet som sannolikt kommer att göras på onsdag. Sedan en sista gnugga ner och borra alla hål för däckbeslag. Äntligen efter det kan jag slå in båten i sin metallblå vinyl. Det är ett experiment men jag är säker på att det kommer att vara värt ansträngningen och om det inte fungerar kan jag alltid måla det. Montering av fenan Igår handlade allt om att få finlådan monterad. Finjustering i exakt rätt läge med konstruktionsmåtten och att ha den vertikal är det mest kritiska jobbet på båten. Om du gör detta fel kommer båten att vara svår att balansera och kan segla högre på den ena käften än den andra. Båten i min jigg är inställd för att vara jämn på sin vattenlinje, det vill säga det finns en horisontell linjeförbindelse botten av fören och botten av aktern. Finens framkant sitter vinkelrätt mot denna linje. Gör jiggen rätt och allt är enkelt. På planen finns två mått, en från skrovet till framkanten av fenan och sedan en från förspetsen till botten av fenan där den kommer in i glödlampan. Ställ in dessa mätningar och fenans framkant ska vara vinkelrätt mot båtens vattenlinje. Jag var mindre än en examen. Se bild 24-27. För att få fenan exakt vertikal från akterna, jämnar jag ut båten vid kåpan och använder en nivå på fenan för att göra vertikal och använder sedan maskeringstejp för att säkra den. Gravitation hjälper till på bild 27. Strängen på bilden används för att mäta från fören till fenan men jag fick göra hål i jiggen. I morgon kan jag passa de sista bitarna på däcket och skottet. Avsluta bindningen Igår var det limningsdag. Monterade framdäck, förborrat skott, radiokrukhållare och huvudark. Bara ett litet fel. Jag glömde att försegla och förstärka toppen av fenlådan Jag har det roligaste jobbet att göra det idag plus slutmontering för servomontage och roderfäste. Nestjobb är att förborra alla passande hål, applicera fyllmedel vid behov och slutlig sand redo att applicera omslag. När jag monterade huvudarkposten mätte jag noggrant en mittlinje vid däcket och gjorde sedan detsamma med en sträng 6 tum från däcket. Med hjälp av en fyrkant kunde jag få huvudarkets inlägg upprätt och i linje med fenfodralet, ryggstödet, jibbladets ögon och fästpunkterna som alla är markerade. Fingrar som korsar seglen kommer att sätta samma på båda spåren. Skrovvikten är hittills 420 gram. Gammal skrovvikt vid denna tidpunkt 620 gram. Kanske 350 gram kan uppnås med en något tunnare uppläggning. Jag var generös med epoxin vid basen av fenan men det är här rättarna ändå är. Uppskattningsvis kommer cirka 400 gram korrektorer att krävas. Städar Den sista förstärkningen gick in igår. Inte mycket att visa eftersom båten ser ut som dagen innan men med tillägg av roder och servostöd. Ger skrovet ett bra t -snitt för att leta efter grova fläckar och sedan den metalliska blå omslaget Lite återstående jobb att göra efter omslaget som slutlig passform av fenan och lägg till elektronik och beslag. Bygget klart När de sista jobben slogs av på fredagen är skrovet klart för inpackning. Jag tillbringade idag slipning och rengöring av skrov och däck, sista passform av fen och roder som slutade exakt enligt designplanerna och är båda i linje med varandra. Imorgon är det inlämningsdag. Beställde de nya PG -riggarna från Potters Solutions och ett par bitar och bobbar från Sailsetc. När båten väl är inlindad kan jag sätta upp de nya riggarna med hjälp av befintliga beslag bortsett från höljena. Sedan lite in -house tuning och jag är redo att gå på vattnet. Det är inte en omslag Omslaget misslyckades. Det är så mycket krökning i skrovet och däcket, du måste sträcka omslaget så mycket före applicering och du behöver flera par händer, så det är tillbaka till färgsprutningen. Båten är klar med sprayen och som Mr Gibson sa att du har det mycket bättre med färg eftersom skadad vinyl är omöjlig att reparera. Han borde veta att han brukade slå in 18 fotfot bland annat. Varför pratade jag inte med honom först. Drömmen fanns, erfarenheten saknades. Älskade metallic finish men det är inte att vara. Framåt och uppåt och iväg för att titta på 18 foters tävling runt Sydney hamn i JJ Giltinan. Självklart på datorn Beslutstid på färg Det har varit en lång process att försöka sortera färgen till båten. Jag kunde använda min beprövade 2 -pack polyuretan som jag vet är hård och hållbar, men jag vill spraya för att däcken ska se smarta ut. Som ni vet försökte jag använda vinylfolie men båtens kurvor visade sig vara för mycket. Sökandet tog mig att spruta burkar med epoxi, emalj och andra ytbehandlingar men jag stötte på en industriell akrylbaserad färg i en sprayburk. Den är konstruerad för reparation av industriella beläggningar inomhus eller externt. Det är en risk jag vet men jag förberedde ett prov i eftermiddag och det har bra färg, är hårt, flexibelt, bra UV -egenskaper och motståndskraftigt mot repor. Databladet finns här: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3165638.pdf Så det fortsätter imorgon och vi får se hur färgen fungerar. Bilderna nedan visar det nya sprayutseendet på ett prov och effekten jag försöker undvika när jag målar 2 -pack polyuretan. Jag ska visa resultatet i morgon och sedan se hur det sliter när vi seglar. Problem med batteriet Skrovets passform är komplett med köl och roder i perfekt inriktning. När jag gick för att testa elektroniken började jag ladda batteriet och märkte direkt att det svullnade. Jag tog bort batteriet utanför eftersom det finns intressanta historier om batterier som blåser upp. Två till på beställning. Framstegen stoppas tills nya `PG -reservdelar och batterier kommer nästa vecka. Varnas, håll ett öga på ditt Lipo/lifo -batteri om du inte har laddat dem på ett tag. Om de visar tecken på expansion, ta ut dem ur huset. Inuti radiokrukan Jag läste en artikel av Darren Paulic som publicerades på Facebook RC Sailing Group och finns här. Radiokontrollsegling i saltvatten. I artikeln talade Darren om vikten av att hålla din elektricitet ur vattnet och täcka med vaselin eller kiselfett . Han lade ett lager neopren på basen av sitt batteri och mottagaren för att hålla dem borta från botten av radiokärlet för att skydda dem från eventuella vatteninträngningar. Jag tänkte ett steg längre för en enkel snygg lösning och fann att du kan använda klibbig bakre kardborre som fastnar som du vet vad, även till Correx, för att hålla batteriet och servokomponenterna separata och från botten av potten. Du kan också lägga en liten bit på änden av mottagarkablarna för att hålla dem 90 grader mot varandra för optimal radiosignalprestanda. Kom ihåg att placera batteriet på båtens mittlinje. Bild 38 och 39. Problem med vinschen, eller var det operatörsfel (Bild 40) Först och främst ett stort skrik till Bill Green (RMG UK) som tillhandahåller en supertjänst och är så snabb att svara på frågor. När jag demonterade och återmonterade min radioutrustning som överfördes till den nya båten kunde jag inte förstå varför när jag vände min sändare på vinschen som flyttade förbi över ett varv. Stäng av sändaren och den återvände till sin ursprungliga position. Ett samtal till Bill borde lösa problemet. Han sa med rätta att jag borde programmera vinschgränserna enligt manualen som jag inte hade kupol tidigare och se vad som händer. Jag gjorde det men det löste inte problemet. Duh, jag kom ihåg så småningom. På en Emsworth -träningszoom hade deras man Richard Ballas, som är en radiosnurr, pratat med att ställa in felsäkert läge på sändaren. Detta gör att du kan ställa in rodret och arket på båten så att det går runt i cirklar snarare än att segla iväg i fjärran om båten tappar radiosignal. Jag hade ställt in detta för några veckor sedan men hade glömt vad det skulle göra. Varje gång jag stängde av sändaren lättades arket en och en halv varv och rodret vände 25 grader. Slå på sändaren och arket och rodret återgår till sitt ursprungliga läge. Problemet är löst, nu är det bara att finjustera vinschinställningen när den är helt riggad. Strömvikter hittills: Bare skrov målat 460 gram Beslag och RC 373gms Rod 32gms Glödlampa och fen 2500 gram Rigg uppskattar 235 till 300 gram Beräkna därför 365 till 400 gram korrektorer. Här är båten i all ära. Next Section Build the rigs

Innan ett evenemang Bestäm vad som är ditt mål i segling Veta din tävlingsregler och taktik Hantera din investering med de försiktiga båtunderhåll Segla snabbt med höger båttuning och inställning Känn dina radiokontroller Effektiv båtövning Säkerställ konsekvent installation med checklistor Vet hur vädret hjälper dig Användbar referenser

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 2) A Rig forestay tension: The A rig is the only suite where I change forestay tension. The rest have the forestay as tight as I can get it until I start worrying about breaking the boat or having the mast go out of column. You never want the forestay to pump or flog upwind, so for each increasing wind condition you go just a bit tighter so that you get a bit of sag, but no pumping. At the very top of A, the tighter the better and do not let it sag. The sag and a loose jib cunnigham seem to put a bit more fullness into the front of the jib and with very sensitive telltales you can see that the fuller the jib entry the longer the flow seems to stay attached to the leeward side of the jib. This is particularly helpful in very dirty air with lots of wind switches etc. The forestay length on my boat varies from 1138 to 1132mm from the lightest to strongest conditions. My go to setting when I am unsure turns out to be 1135 just as the rigging guide suggests. It will also depend on how much your backstay stretches, I use the below on my backstay: As Per Krabbe has kindly pointed out, dyneema lines are prone to shrinking. I have marks to quickly put the rigs into the boat (last minute change before heat etc), which I do check before each regatta, but over a few days the lines may still change length. I have a fairly good feeling now for what the rig should look like, but it's probably a good idea to check the lengths regularly. This is how I set up my main sheeting angle on the A rig: I put the palm of my hand against the aft quarter of the boat and when sighting from astern I have my fingers parallel to the backstay. With my hand in this position the main boom just touches my fingers. No measurments, no confusion and very easy to repeat. Yes it's wider than just about every tuning guide suggests, but at this point I am just setting up consistent sheeting angles of the main and jib (to follow in next post) With the main sheeting angle set, the jib is then trimmed such that the hole in back of the jib boom fitting is over the first knuckle on the deck. It's close to 60mm between the middle of the mast and the inner edge of the boom. In my case its also exactly the width of my three middle fingers. I posted some pictures Sue Brown took, but the posts seem to have disappeared. I seem to have put the link on my main profile and not this group ..lol. http://www.flickr.com/.../in/album-72177720308506905/... I do sail with the setting I posted. Here is my go fast mode: I run 20mm foot depths on the main and jib as a starting point. In this mode I want the boat to run with absolutely neutral helm. It can hunt the breeze slightly, but must never luff up and slow down. I never want to be pulling the bow down with the rudder. I may trim in and and push the bow up. This is absolutely the best VMG mode in the absence of other boats. You will go faster and end up higher than a boat that sails only in pinch mode. I use the bottom draft strip a lot. I want to see the maximum depth at 50% and a clean straight entry after the mast. If the fullness is further forward I flatten the foot of the mainsail further If the boat is running with a bit of weather helm as the breeze increases I will first flatten the main off to about 10mm and if that does not work I will change the trim to let the main out slightly further, but leave the jib the same. I will also flatten the jib down to 10mm at the very top end of A, but only after the main is already down to 10mm. The neutral helm also has the advantage that when I am unsighted and cant see the boat it is still sailing flat out without my input. This is also a big advantage when the boat is too far away to see clearly. That lower tell tale on the main is a great trim indicator. It should fly at a slight up angle on the weather side of about 20 degrees. In this photo it says I am sailing a fraction lower than optimum and I should push the boat up with the rudder. The neutral helm has one further huge advantage. As I tack, once I am on the new heading I seldom need to keep on some weather helm until the boat gets its speed up again and starts tracking. The boat also tacks much more cleanly as a result and I stall less when I make a mistake. I.e. its much easier to get the boat going again from a bad tack. And a great picture of John. He sheets the main in a bit more than I do, but the jib is still quite wide. This is probably his pinch mode though and if he dropped the main slightly so the jib is over the deck knuckle we would be quite close in setup. One difference is that the entry angle on the main on Johns boat at the first draft stripe is a bit wider than mine, so he would need to sheet a bit closer. My entry looks a lot flatter, so I can sheet the boom out a bit and still have a similar entry angle. This could be because I have a bit more mast bend coupled with less luff curve. I actively set my mast bend so that the luff at this height moves behind the mast. I.e. the luff sits on the centre line, not to leeward of the mast. Notice how flat he now runs his main foot depth. I was running 20mm, but John looks to be even flatter. It's also a great picture for showing the twist in the sails and a perfect example of how the twist in the jib parallels the back of the main. Active trim: My high mode has the jib width at 45-50mm, about 1cm - 1,5cm in from my best VMG mode. I have the ratchet set for the mainsail trim on my radio. I Move the trim/throttle stick on the radio so that it is two ratchet clicks up. This is the radio setting that I want to see my VMG sail setting at. I use the subtrim buttons on my radio to move the sails to that setting. With the trim all the way in I now want the jib to be at 50mm or perhaps even 45mm in very flat water. Depending on the radio, two clicks may move the trim in more than the desired 1-1.5cm so you would need to change your throttle curve. The radio I used at Fleetwood did not need it, but my newer radio moves the sheet too far and I have set a throttle curve. If there are boats around me and I need height, I will start with the boat at two clicks out and then once it up at full speed, I start to bleed the boat up as I trim in. Often you can carry a high fast mode for a length of time, but if I hit a bad wave or header and the boat slows then its immediately trim to the two clicks position, get the speed back and then work the boat up again one or two clicks. If I am in clear air and chasing then I found the boat very fast at two clicks out and did not trim in much The higher trim mode is also very useful if you get THAT boat below you that is racing only you and the fleet disappears into the distance whilst they try and luff the heck out of you. Your race is still toast, but at least it does give you some time to find a gap to tack away in. If you do have some space to leeward, then even with the wider trim you may be pleasantly surprised to see that you don't lose height and will roll over them quite quickly. I'll try and do a bit on twist, but here is a hint that I do not have enough twist in the top of my jib. Camber stripes are your friend. The bottom windward telltale is running at the angle I like, but the top one suggests I have mucked up the trim. It should match the bottom as closely as possible. Mains twist. Finicky beast. Half a turn on the vang can make a surprising difference. I can only suggest a starting point and then fiddle with small changes until the boat looks and behaves to your preferences. Looking at the boat from behind when the boat is on the water and using the picture of John's boat as a template would be a good start. Looking down the backstay from behind the boat, I want the main leech to parallel the backstay between the top two battens. It was difficult to take a photo, but fairly obvious in real life Jib Twist. I like the jib leech to parallel the back of the main for as far as possible. The upper third of the jib should also parallel the main entry angle as far as possible. Top of jib and upper third of main should start to luff at the same time as you head up into the wind. Earlier I posted a near perfect picture of John Tushingham and now I hope he forgives me for posting one a bit more ugly This was taken a month before the Globals and I think I had an edge on boat speed in this race. I never saw his boat look like this in the Globals and want to use this to point out how top sailors like him are prepared to adapt and experiment. In this photo we have similar rake, but I am running a more bent mast, with flatter sails. A much finer entry for the main as a result, which should result in a cleaner and wider slot between the back of the main and the jib. The difference in speed was very small, but even a cm or two of extra speed helps get your nose out in a crowded start and makes you look like a better sailor. Compare this to his globals setup B-Rig Quick reminder that these are my settings and opinions and are not the only way to do things. I was not very fond of the B-rig, but took the opportunity to go out and sail whenever there was enough wind in the evenings. After a few sessions of just buggering around with silly settings I started to really enjoy these sessions as the B-rig has such brilliant contrast between just sailing and sailing fast and once you found the faster settings the boat itself became increasingly easier to sail. I went into the first B-rig race at the Globals not knowing if I had got it right as I have had nobody to sail against. In short it was a very pleasant surprise and I had speed to burn. As the regatta wore on I made a few mistakes (getting off the lee shore etc) and started to second guess myself and changed the setting to trim a bit narrower, which was a mistake in retrospect, but I was not too stessed as I could still hang in for a top 3 in most races. The fastest boat was probably sail number 121. A bit inconsistent, but when he got it right had a definite edge towards the end of the regatta. There could be some advantage to the icarex sail material in these conditions, but if anything this boat was sheeting the jib wider than I do when it was flying. If you set the B-rig up anything like the A, the first thing you will most likely notice is lee helm and the first attempt to fix this would be to pull the main up to the centreline. It does balance the boat, but the groove becomes very narrow and it's hard to keep the boat going fast and tacking can become a bit harder. What worked for me was. As much aft rake as possible to take out some of the lee helm. I wanted the flattest entry angle possible with the maximum camber back at 50% in the lower third. So I bent the mast to take out all the luff curve. All 5mm of it. The tightest forestay possible, just short of breaking the boat. It makes the boat easier to tack and also takes shape out of the jib keeping the entry flatter. I wanted the widest main I could get away with and to keep things consistent I start with the main boom against the palm of my hand when my fingers are parallel to the backstay as normal. Most of the other boats do sheet a bit closer. Good, I feel I am faster. With the main boom in this position the jib boom is now over the side of the boat. 65-70mm between the mast and jib boom. I do have a 'point' mode where the jib may come in to 55-60mm, which could be used off the start line, but once clear I am sheeting out again. The jib is flat, 10mm-15 mm foot depth. The jib twist is still parallel to the back of the main, but you can twist it off a bit more at the very top of B rig conditions. The main is flat. I run 15mm, but JohnT is even flatter at 10mm or less. There is a fair amount of twist in the main, which you can get away with as with the luff curve taken out by the bent mast the slot is already very wide. The more twist you have, the faster the boat, but the limit is when the top third starts to backwind. I start with the main twist setting as follows. With the main at the VMG setting, sighting up the backstay a line drawn through the bottom two mainsail battens is parallel to the backstay. Run out of time. Will add a bit more later In the meanwhile here is a nice picture of John, over the start line , but a nice example of a fast setup B rig Sheeting Angle: More detail to follow, but its wider than you think. Three fingers will no longer do the trick. B rig: Backstay and mast: Bend that baby. Luff curve matches back of mast the entire length. Standard or 'stock' luff curve. Flat sails. Jib down at less than 15mm foot depth. I run 15mm on the main. JohnT was flatter. B-rig: More mast curve: B-Rig Main twist: Phone camera perspective mucks thing up, but a line through the ends of the bottom two battens is parallel to the backstay B-rig: Mast Curve

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Enjoy.